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Kaifeng Roast Duck, Yellow River Carp...Become the “Leaders” of Henan Cuisine

Source:Dahe.cn Published:2018-09-11 18:50

9月10日,河南省10道名菜、10大主题名宴上榜全国省籍地域经典名菜,黄河鲤鱼、葱烧海参、汴京烤鸭等河南老百姓耳熟能详的豫籍名菜又一次展示在全国食客面前。当作为吃货的你对着这些名菜垂涎欲滴时,有没有想过它们背后也孕育着一个个美食文化,作为中华民族的传统文化,豫菜背后有着怎样的江湖故事?咱挑几个耳熟能详的说说。

On September 10, 10 famous Henan dishes and 10 theme banquets were selected into the List of Provincial Classic Dishes in China. The famous Henan dishes like Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style, Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion, and Yellow River Carp were once again presented to the food lovers throughout the country. As a foodie drooling over these famous dishes, have you ever thought that there are various food cultures behind them. As a traditional culture of the Chinese nation, what's the stories behind the Henan cuisine? Let’s find them out together.

Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style

汴京烤鸭

Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style

中国老百姓对于烤鸭非常熟悉,其中又以“北京烤鸭”为最,事实上,汴京烤鸭才是中国烤鸭的源头,就像每家门派都有一门不外传的秘法功夫一样,汴京烤鸭代表的是中原美食风格。

Chinese people are very familiar with roast duck, especially "Beijing Roast Duck".In fact, Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style is the source of the Chinese roast duck. Just like every school has a secret art, Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style represents the food style of the Central Plains.

煜丰烤鸭品牌创始人顿玉松向记者介绍,烤鸭发源于北宋,早在公元十世纪就已出现了“汴京烤鸭”。《东京梦华录》中就有关于“烤鸭”的记载。随着朝代的更迭,汴京烤鸭技艺随宋朝南迁流传到南京、杭州。南宋时,“炙鸭”已成为临安“市食”中的名品。《元史》中曾如此记载,元破临安后,元朝将军博颜将临安城中的“百工技艺”徙至大都,就是今天的北京,烤鸭技术才算真正传到了北京。

Dun Yusong, founder of the Yufeng roast duck brand, told the reporter that the roast duck originated in the Northern Song Dynasty while the Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style had already appeared as early as the 10th century AD. The Eastern Capital: A Dream of Splendor also has records of “roast duck”. With the change of dynasties, the cooking skills of the Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style was introduced to Nanjing and Hangzhou with the Song Dynasty’s migrant to the south. According to the History of Yuan Dynasty, after Lin’an (capital of the Southern Song Dynasty) was occupied by Yuan soldiers, Bo Yan, general of the Yuan Dynasty, introduced “hundred craftsmanship” in Lin’an to its capital which is today’s Beijing. The skill of roast duck was then introduced to Beijing at that time.

而随着时代发展,如今河南的“汴京烤鸭”是怎么做的?它采用新郑枣木为燃料,这是延续了1000多年的技术传承,在-20℃的状态下去脂排酸,又用270℃的炭火烘烤45分钟。煜丰美食在寻找历史资料、拜访老艺人的基础上,优化提出了烤鸭加工的13道工艺,从而尽可能复原出汴京烤鸭的传统烤制手法。

With the development of times, how is the Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style made in today’s Henan Province? It uses date woods from Xinzheng for fuel, which (the skill) has a history of more than 1,000 years. Then, the grease and oil will be removed under a temperature of -20 degrees Celsius. Finally, the duck will be roasted for 45 minutes with coals at 270 degrees Celsius. Based on the historical data and old artists, Yufeng Delicious Food has proposed a 13-step cooking method so as to restore the traditional skills of making Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style as far as possible.

Braised Yellow River Carp

豫式黄河鲤鱼

Yellow River Carp (Covered with Baked Noodles, Braised, or Steamed)

黄河鲤鱼是咱河南的一道招牌菜,也是开封又一新饭店、阿五黄河大鲤鱼、郑州裕丰源等饭店响当当的名片。每家饭店又都有自己对黄河鲤鱼的独到理解,正如独孤九剑一般,大剑无锋、大巧不工,无招胜有招世。

Yellow River Carp is not only a speciality of Henan Province, but also a famous “business card” of Kaifeng Youyixin Restaurant, Awu Yellow River Carp Restaurant, and Zhengzhou Yufengyuan Restaurant.

鲤鱼在我国历来被尊为“诸鱼之长”。北宋更是奉鲤鱼为“食品上味”。黄河中的鲤鱼,因其独特之处,世称“金色黄河大鲤鱼”。古籍称:“豫省黄河之鲤,干鲜肥嫩可称珍品”。而开封乃至中原地区,更因一道举世闻名的“糖醋软熘鲤鱼”而一度成为“食品上味”。

Carp has always been revered as the "chief of all fishes" in China. The Northern Song Dynasty also served carp as the "best among all dishes." The carp in the Yellow River is called "Golden Carp of the Yellow River" for its uniqueness. According to the ancient documents, “The Yellow River carp in Henan Province is fresh, fat and tender, which can be seen as delicacies.” In Kaifeng and even the whole Central Plains, a well-known dish called “Braised Yellow River Carp Covered with Baked Noodles” once became the "best among all dishes."

从北宋到南宋的更迭中,大批汴京的居民跟着皇室来到杭州,成为当时的“浙漂”,随着环境的变化,食材也有所不同,黄河鲤鱼甜,西湖鲤鱼的泥腥味较重,于是改为草鱼,不喜欢鱼中有甜味儿,那就再改,经过多次调整,后来又成就了一道名菜——西湖醋鱼。

During the transition from the Northern Song Dynasty to the Southern Song Dynasty, a large number of residents followed the royal family to Hangzhou from Kaifeng, becoming “Zhejiang drifters” at that time. As the environment changes, so do the ingredients. The Yellow River carp is sweet while the West Lake carp's muddy flavor is heavier, so it was then changed to the grass fish. Southerners do not like sweet taste in fish, so it was changed again. With many changes, another famous dish was finally created, called West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy.

咱河南老百姓更熟悉的黄河鲤鱼做法则是“鲤鱼焙面”,焙面也称龙须面。色泽枣红,软嫩鲜香的鲤鱼再加上蓬松酥脆的焙面结合在一起,足可见咱们河南老祖宗在吃上下了一番真功夫。

The cooking method that is more familiar to the people in Henan Province is called “braised carp with baked noodles.” The baked noodles is also called the fine noodles. The tender and delicious carp with red color, together with the fluffy and crispy baked noodles, does reflect the efforts that our ancestors in Henan Province have made concerning diet.

Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion

大葱烧海参

Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion

如果说烤鸭、黄河鲤鱼是传统豫菜代表的话,那么大葱烧海参则是新派豫菜的佼佼者。它以“葵花点穴手”的姿态快准狠地点中了当今美食市场的命脉,也摸准了广大食客的口味,使得这款原本以家常风格见长的大葱烧海参迅速成为河南高端美食市场的代表。

If the Roast Duck in Kaifeng Style and the Yellow River Carp symbolize Henan’s traditional dishes, then the Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion must be the representative of its new dishes. It not only caught the trend of today’s food market, but also grasped the tastes of the masses quickly and accurately. So, the standing dish of Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion has quickly become a representative of the high-end cuisine market in Henan Province.

大葱烧海参是鲁班张的当家花旦,据介绍,其所选用的海参来自北半球高纬度海域生长的野生海参,这种海参个头儿大,肉质厚,营养丰富,口感好。大葱也绝不可不讲究,要用山东章丘大葱,这种大葱葱白极长,味微辣,章丘大葱在明朝时期,就已被皇室封为“葱中王”。

The Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion is a signature dish of Lu Ban Zhang (a restaurant). According to the introduction, the sea cucumbers that are used are wild ones from the high latitudes in the northern hemisphere. These wild sea cucumbers are not only large and fleshy, but also rich in nutrients with better tastes. The scallions that are used come from Zhangqiu, Shandong Province, with longer stalk and little spicy. In the Ming dynasty, the scallion of Zhangqiu was already named as "Scallion King" by the royal family.

这样做出来的大葱烧海参,红褐光亮,葱香四溢。对了,您还得来碗米饭配着吃,极其下饭。

The Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion cooked in this way is bright in color with scallion fragrance. By the way, you may want a bowl of rice to go with it, which is very delicious.

洛阳水席

Luoyang Water Banquet

在十大主题名宴中,洛阳水席也占据一席之地,使得这道代表河南的宴席更为天下人所知。事实上,洛阳水席在某种程度上一直是豫菜的代名词。

Luoyang Water Banquet also occupies a place in the top 10 theme banquets, making the banquet representing Henan Province more known to the world. In fact, Luoyang Water Banquet has been a synonym for Henan cuisine, to some extent.

据了解,正宗的洛阳水席全席共设24道菜,包括8个冷盘、4个大件、8个中件、4个压桌菜。上菜顺序极为考究,先上8个冷盘作为下酒菜;待客人酒过三巡再上热菜:首先上4大件热菜,每上一道跟上两道中件,也叫陪衬菜,美其名曰“带子上朝”,最后上4道压桌菜,其中有一道鸡蛋汤,又称送客汤,以示全席已经上满。

It is reported that the authentic Luoyang Water Banquet consists of 24 dishes, including 8 cold dishes, 4 big dishes, 8 smaller dishes, and 4 end dishes. The serving order also has its custom. At the beginning, 8 cold dishes are served as accompaniments to drinks. After three drinks, hot dishes are served: 4 big hot dishes are served firstly, and each big dish is followed by 2 smaller dishes as side dishes, which is called “going to empire court with sons”. At last, 4 end dishes are served, including an egg soup, also known as the Farewell Soup, indicating all dishes have been served.

在洛阳本地人看来,水席是各种宴席的上席,作为传统饮食,洛阳水席和牡丹花会、龙门石窟并称为洛阳三绝。(记者王峰 翻译赵汉青)

From the perspective of the local people of Luoyang, Water Banquet is the best with the highest level among all banquets. As a traditional diet, the Luoyang Water Banquet, the peony festival and the Longmen Grottoes are called Three Wonders of Luoyang.

  


Editor:Zhao Hanqing